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How To Find A Bra That Won't Let You Down
Over the past half-century, we've gone from Marilyn Monroe's bullet bras to no bras to bras that tell the world your every sensitivity and emotion. A quick guide on how to get the right bra from a fitting pro.
by H.M Cauley
December 14, 2005
O
ver the past half-century, we've gone from Marilyn Monroe's bullet bras to no bras, to
bras that tell the world your every sensitivity and emotion. Along the way, we've yanked, tugged,
pinched, hoisted and performed innumerable gymnastics to prevent "bra failure." Here, a quick guide
on how to get the right bra from a fitting pro.
Eight out of 10 women share the same secret problem. In fact, many of us might not even be
aware that we have a problem. It's not a common cause for discussion, even among the best of
friends.
The Issue? Bras That Fit
Who thinks twice when a strap slips down a shoulder, a band rides up your back or an
underwire cuts into your skin? Most of us just tug, adjust and move on. But you don't have to spend
your life in discomfort. There really are ways, experts say, to find a bra that fits properly and
eliminates bunching, pinching and sliding.
The solution lies in getting the correct fit. For a variety of reasons, an amazing 80
per-cent of women are wearing the wrong size. Some of us aren't willing to give up the size we've
spent most of our lives in ("I've been a 36B as long as I can remember!") or are attracted to
slinky, skimpy styles that just aren't suited to our bodies. And face it, some of us are too
embarrassed to disrobe in front of a stranger to be measured properly for the correct size.
Whatever the excuse, Robin Ashwander has heard it. As a fitting specialist for Dillard's
department stores, she travels around the Southeast training foundation sales clerks how to measure
and fit bra customers. "I think the biggest problem is women don't know their size," says
Ashwander. "Ideally, you should be measured twice a year. Even if your weight hasn't changed, your
body shape may have. And if you're still wearing the same size you've always worn, well, I don't
know about you, but my body does not look like it did 10 years ago."
"Another problem is that most women go too big around and not deep enough in the cup," says Ashwander.
That problem is easily solved by taking the correct measurements. It's a simple three-step process:
1. Place a measuring tape underneath each arm and fit it snugly around your body. That number is the band size. (Some experts also suggest measuring by placing the tape just below the breast tissue.)
2. Move the tape to the fullest part of your breast and measure around again.
3. Calculate the difference between the band measurement and the number you recorded across your breasts. The difference represents cup size. For example, if your band measurement is 34 and your fullest measurement is 37,then your band size is 34 and your cup size is C. Each inch over the band measurement represents a cup size. You know what's next.
Let's Go Shopping
Anyone who's spent a frustrating few hours trying on bras knows it's not just a case of one-size-works-for-all. A 34B in one brand may not fit as well as the same size from another manufacturer.
"There is a big difference between brands, mainly in the snugness of the band or deepness of the cup," says Ashwander. "You could wear two different sizes in different brands, or different sizes in different styles. So don't get locked into thinking you're just one size."
Not all styles work for all body types, either. That skimpy piece of lace with spaghetti straps may look great on the display model, but if you're a full-busted woman, it's not going to give the support and comfort you're looking for. And check the tags to see if you're looking at an average- or full-cup size.
"Most women don't realize that a full cup is deeper for a fuller breast, but won't fit if you're shallow on top," says Ashwander. "If you're not filling out the cup completely, you need a bra with a bit of filling to help you out."
Fuller-figured women do well with underwire styles with wider, padded straps. "Without that extra support from a wire, you have to rely on the straps to hold your breasts up," says Ashwander. And while most of us spend a lot of time on getting the right cup fit, we're apt to overlook how a bra fits in the back. If you're looking at folds of skin bulging across your back, go with a wider band to smooth things out.
Bra buyers may also want to consider different styles for different outfits, Ashwander advises. "If you have a wardrobe of bras, you can have a smooth cup to wear under snug T-shirts and a seamed cup that gives you a flattering shape when you wear a fitted jacket with darts."
But the bottom line is having at least three well-fit-ting bras, says Ashwander: "One to wear, one to wash and one to rest."
Yes, bras benefit from time off. Ashwander hangs her bra by the straps and let sit "rest" for 24 hours between wearings. "Just like shoes, your body temperature makes a bra stretch out all day," she explains. "Letting it rest lets the body oils evaporate and you won't have to wash it as often."
When it comes to washing, take great care. Hand wash, or place bras in a lingerie bag and run on a delicate washer cycle. Even with gentle handling, bras often begin to lose their initial comfortable shape in about six months. So purge the pile regularly and add a lingerie shopping trip to your annual schedule.
Information and tips on measuring, and bra styles are available online at:
www.barenecessities.com
www.dillards.com
www.freshpair.com
Four Facts For
Better-Fitting Bras
- Take correct measurements, or have a trained fitter at a lingerie store do it for you.
- Select styles based on body type. Fuller figures will benefit from wider bands and padded straps. Petite shapes can get a boost from padding.
- Look for bras with a thin lining of foam if you're concerned about nipples showing.
- When shopping for a specialty item such as a strapless bra, take the outfit you have in mind with you and try it on with the bra.
