Escapes: Rent A House In Provence

It's easy, affordable and offers a real French experience.

by H.M. Cauley

May 30, 2008

The not-so-favorable currency exchange rate has some people reconsidering their plans to head to Europe this summer. But for many who have read "A Year in Provence," Peter Mayle's entertaining journal of 12 months spent in the southern portion of France, the desire to visit the sun-splashed area of lavender fields and wineries is irresistible.

Whether they're heading there for two weeks, two months or longer, visitors to the area are keen on capturing just a taste of the experience – with a budget in mind.

For Buckhead's Claudia North, that is easily accomplished by forgoing the region's many hotels and inns and renting a house instead. She and her husband, Richard, have been regular renters in Provence since 1999.

"We've been back every year since," North says. "Especially when our children were small, it was the way to go. We had a pool and a terrace where ate almost every day. Plus, you can stay out of the big cities and the hotels, so it's a cheaper way to do it."

Les Champs de Saint Rémy in Provence, Bouces-de-Rhone, near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

North also found ways to save by enjoying a breakfast of fresh croissants and breads on the terrace of her rented abode and cooking dinners with goodies collected at the area's many outdoor markets.

"We were close to the markets with fabulous fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats and wines," she says. " We love to go there, then cook in the evenings."

Renting a house with friends or family also cuts down on the cost, points out Annie Flogaus, owner of Just France, a Philadelphia-based firm that specializes in French house rentals.

"In the high season of summer, a house with three bedrooms and three baths is about $5,150 in U.S. dollars," says Flogaus. "A comparable hotel room $400, so times that by seven and it is $2,800 – just for two people. We have houses that start at $3,500 and ones with five bedrooms for $7,000. And if you reserve a house, our prices are guaranteed; if you rent a hotel room, you pay whatever the exchange rate is on the day you check out."

Those who want a luxurious experience will find houses that include daily maid service and the talents of a chef to prepare meals. The cost generally is all-inclusive, covering utilities, linens, cleaning and taxes. Renters will find a level of privacy not always available at a hotel and the freedom to leave their belongings in one place as they travel around the area sightseeing.

Mas de Cheval Noir: in Provence, Bouches-du-Rhone, near Egalières

Finding the right house starts by settling a few key questions. After establishing a budget, the dates of travel and the number of guests who will stay in the house, Flogaus suggests that visitors list the things they want in their vacation home, from the type of view to the proximity of the nearest village.

"Many of these homes are the owners' primary residence, so they have a lot of character," says Flogaus. "Most have a living room with a TV, DVD player, a place to sit and have a cocktail with the other people in your group. Many have swimming pools, gardens and terrific views. They have spots where you can sit and relax – it's not a small balcony in the middle of a crowded city."

After the basics are established, Flogaus helps travelers decide which area of Provence they prefer. "I usually start by putting Avignon in the center," she says. "To the east is the Luberon Valley, most noted for its hillside villages, markets and vineyards. But it's very scrubby and can get really hot during the summer. Drive a half-hour away and you're in an entirely different landscape.”

To the northeast of Avignon is the Vaucluse region, where the countryside is lined with vineyards. "This is a great area for anyone who enjoys wine," Flogaus says. "You can drive from your house to the next village and pass four vineyards where you can stop for a tasting."

To the south, the mouth of the Rhone River is home to many charming towns – St. Remy-de-Provence and Les Baux-de-Provence. The area is known for its old stone farmhouses on large tracts of land. Avignon's western side includes many historic sites, including the Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct.

No matter which area travelers zero in on, they shouldn't be concerned by not being fluent in French. "This is not a stressful area!" Flogaus says with a laugh. "Whether you're fluent or speak no French at all, the people are incredibly friendly, and it's easy to get along."

North's stays in the area helped her children learn the language quickly. And they got regular history lessons as well.

"There are so many historic sites in Provence, from the coliseum in Nîmes to the palace of the popes in Avignon," she says.

Her next visit comes up in a few months, when she and her husband will be going on their own to a small apartment in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. "We're going in September when they harvest the grapes," she says. "It's something we have always wanted to do, and we'll be there after the crowds are gone. It's a great way to get back to the simple life."

Information about house rentals in France is available online at www.justfrance.com and www.athomeinfrance.com.

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Escapes: Rent A House In Provence

It's easy, affordable and offers a real French experience.

by H.M. Cauley

May 30, 2008